Common Egg Laying Problems in Backyard Chickens (and How to Fix Them)

Common Egg Laying Problems in Backyard Chickens (and How to Fix Them)

You go out to the coop, reach into the nest box, and instead of a nice, firm egg, you find something wrong. Maybe it's soft. Maybe it's tiny. Maybe there's no egg at all — and you have no idea why.

I've been keeping Light Sussex and Orpingtons here in Devon for years. I've seen many of the common egg-laying problems backyard keepers run into. Here's what I've learned about the most common laying problems, what causes them, and how to fix them.

🐔 Quick answer

🥚 Soft-shelled eggs — often calcium deficiency or stress. Check feed and reduce disturbances.
🥚 Small eggs — usually young pullets adjusting. They'll grow bigger over time.
🥚 Eggs laid on the floor — nest box issues. Make it dark, clean, and private.
🥚 Egg eating — often starts with a cracked egg. Collect eggs frequently and use fake eggs.
🥚 Broody hens — want to hatch. Many keepers use a well-ventilated broody breaker cage for a few days to help interrupt broodiness.
⚠️ If problems persist, rule out illness, parasites, and stress.

When hens stop laying altogether

It's normal for hens to stop laying for short periods. But if production drops and doesn't return, check:

• Moulting — hens replace feathers in late summer/autumn, often stopping entirely for a few weeks.
• Winter daylight reduction — shorter days naturally reduce egg production.
• Stress — predators, new birds, loud noise.
• Illness — a sick hen may stop laying for weeks.
• Age — older hens naturally slow down.

If none of these apply and the hen has stopped laying for more than a few weeks, a vet check is advisable.

Soft-shelled and shell-less eggs (calcium isn't always the cause)

Soft-shelled eggs are one of the most common problems I've seen. A soft or missing shell often means a calcium deficiency — but not always. Stress, age, and illness can also cause shell problems.

In my experience, young pullets sometimes lay soft eggs in their first few weeks of laying. It's part of the adjustment period. Older hens — often 3+ years — may also start laying larger eggs with thinner shells as their reproductive system winds down.

If your hens are otherwise healthy and you're feeding quality layers pellets with a calcium supplement offered separately (crushed oyster shell or dried eggshells), wait a week or two. Many laying problems improve once the underlying cause is identified and corrected.

If soft-shelled eggs persist in multiple hens, check for signs of disease or reproductive issues. Persistent soft eggs can sometimes be associated with infectious diseases or reproductive tract problems.

Small eggs (fairy eggs and wind eggs)

Young pullets just starting to lay often produce small eggs. In my flock, the first eggs were tiny — sometimes half the size of a normal egg. Within a few weeks, they got bigger. Within a month or two, they were normal size.

Occasionally, young pullets lay tiny eggs with little or no yolk. These are often called fairy eggs or wind eggs. They're usually harmless and become less common as the hen matures.

If you find one, don't panic. It's normal for new layers.

Egg eating (once it starts, it spreads)

Egg eating is one of the hardest habits to stop. A hen that breaks an egg and eats it will learn that eggs are food. Other hens may begin copying the behaviour if broken eggs are left accessible. Once it starts, you'll find smashed, empty shells in every nest box.

Prevention is the best approach. In my flock, I place fake eggs (wooden or ceramic) in the nest boxes before pullets start laying. The curious young hens peck at them, learn they're not food, and lose interest. By the time real eggs appear, they've already learned that pecking nest box eggs is a waste of time.

If egg eating has already started, here's what I do:

• Collect eggs as soon as possible — don't let them sit in the nest box
• Temporarily separating a hen may help interrupt the habit, although prevention and rapid egg collection are usually more effective.
• Check for thin-shelled eggs — weak shells are more likely to break, which triggers the habit
• Keep nest boxes dark (a curtain over the entrance can help)

Floor laying (why hens lay outside the nest box)

A hen that lays eggs on the coop floor or in the run is a problem. Floor eggs are more likely to break, get soiled, or be eaten. In my experience, floor laying spreads to other hens quickly.

Here's what I do to fix it:

• Keep nest boxes clean and inviting — hens prefer quiet, dimly lit, private spaces with soft bedding. Remove droppings regularly and top up straw or wood shavings. One box per 3 hens is ideal.
• Make nest boxes darker than the rest of the coop — a hen wants to feel hidden when she lays.
• Block access to favoured floor spots — if a hen keeps laying in the same corner, fill it in or block it off.
• Check perch height — perches should always be higher than nest boxes. Hens naturally want to roost in the highest spot.

Getting chickens to lay eggs in the nesting box is all about making the box the best place to lay. Clean, private, quiet and inviting. With the help of fake eggs and small coop tweaks, most laying problems can be resolved quickly.

Broody hens (when sitting becomes a problem)

A broody hen is one that stops laying to sit on eggs, even when no eggs are present. She'll puff up, stay in the nest box, and refuse to move. She might even peck at you if you try to move her.

In my flock, Orpingtons are more prone to broodiness than Light Sussex. A broody hen won't lay new eggs until the cycle is broken.

What works: Many keepers use a well-ventilated broody breaker cage for a few days to help interrupt broodiness. Most hens become less broody within that time. Without intervention, hens can remain broody for 3-4 weeks.

Parasites (the hidden drain)

Red mites are the most common parasite problem in backyard flocks, particularly during warmer UK months. They hide in the coop during the day and come out at night to feed on hens' blood. A heavy infestation causes anaemia, stress, weight loss, and a drop in egg production.

While red mites are the most common culprit, lice and internal worms can also reduce egg production and overall flock condition.

In my experience, you often won't see the mites in daylight. Check under perches for grey dust — that's actually a mass of mites. A dust bath (wood ash and sand) helps hens manage parasites naturally, but severe infestations need prompt treatment.

Prevention is easier than cure: keep the coop clean, use dry bedding, and check for mites regularly.

When to call a vet

If you see these signs, a vet check is advisable:

• Persistent soft or shell-less eggs across multiple hens
• Lethargy or reduced appetite
• Respiratory signs (coughing, sneezing, laboured breathing)
• Swollen abdomen
• Signs of egg binding — straining, lethargy, a penguin-like stance, reduced appetite, and repeated visits to the nest box without laying

Egg binding occurs when a hen fails to lay an egg. If it's not treated quickly, the hen can die.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why have my chickens suddenly stopped laying eggs?

Sudden drops in egg production are often caused by stress (predators, new birds, loud noise), heat stress, poor nutrition, or illness. Check for these factors first.

What causes egg production problems in backyard chickens?

Common causes include calcium deficiency, stress, age, breed variation, parasites, and disease. In my experience, nutrition and stress are the most frequent culprits.

Can a hen recover from egg binding?

Yes, if caught early. Signs include straining, lethargy, and a penguin-like stance. If you see these, contact a vet quickly.

What I've learned

Most egg problems are preventable with good management. If you keep the coop clean, provide quality feed and separate calcium, reduce stress, and watch your flock daily, most problems will resolve themselves.

But don't overcomplicate it. If your pullets are just starting to lay and the eggs are small, be patient. They'll grow. If you find soft eggs, check calcium first. If that doesn't work, look at stress and age.

And if you have a problem that won't resolve, a vet check can help rule out more serious underlying causes.

Final Verdict

Most egg-laying problems come down to nutrition, stress, age, housing, or health. Start with the basics: feed quality, calcium, coop conditions, and flock behaviour.

If the problem doesn't improve within a couple of weeks, or your hens show signs of illness, seek veterinary advice. Catching problems early is far easier than fixing them later.