Why Are My Hens Not Laying Eggs? (Common Causes and Fixes)
Why Are My Hens Not Laying Eggs? (Common Causes and Fixes)
You've fed them well. You've kept their coop clean. You check on them every day. But the nest boxes are empty — again.
I've been there. When I first started keeping Light Sussex here in Devon, I made mistakes that cost me months of empty nest boxes. Some of my pullets took much longer to start laying than they should have.
Let me walk you through the real reasons hens stop laying — and how to fix them.
🐔 Quick checklist (if your hens aren't laying)
☐ Are they getting enough light? (most hens lay best with around 14 hours)
☐ Are they moulting? (losing feathers — very common in autumn)
☐ Is the coop dry, well‑ventilated, and quiet?
☐ Are they eating quality layers feed — not just scraps or grains?
☐ Do they have access to grit, fresh water, and a dust bath?
☐ Are they stressed? (new birds, predators, loud noises)
☐ Could they be broody? (sitting on eggs all day)
☐ Are they sick or infested with mites/lice?
☐ Is it extreme heat or cold?
1. Light (the most common mistake)
Most laying hens produce best when they receive around 14 hours of light per day. In a British winter, the sun sets at 4pm. That's your first problem.
But here's what I learned the hard way: it's not just about day length. Access to natural daylight generally supports healthier development and more natural behaviour.
In my first flock, I kept the birds inside too long. No sunlight, just a fluorescent tube. The result? Some pullets didn't lay until they were nearly 10 months old, and they were generally less healthy than they should have been. Even after I opened the coop and gave them access to the garden, those birds ran back inside. They weren't used to the sun.
What I learned: Raise chicks with access to natural daylight from the start. If you must use artificial light, choose a warm yellow bulb (not cool white fluorescent). It mimics sunlight better. But nothing replaces the real thing.
2. Moulting (completely normal but often misunderstood)
Most hens moult once a year, usually in late summer or autumn. During a moult, they replace old feathers with new ones. This process requires a lot of protein and energy.
Because of that, many hens stop laying completely while moulting. It can last anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months.
I remember the first time my flock went through a moult. I panicked. Empty nest boxes for weeks. The hens looked ragged and miserable. I thought something was seriously wrong.
It wasn't. They were just doing what hens do.
What I learned: If your hens are losing feathers and look healthy otherwise, don't panic. Increase dietary protein (mealworms or high-protein feed) and give them time. Most hens return to laying once the moult is finished.
3. Feed quality (are they actually eating?)
A hungry hen won't lay. A hen that's cold won't lay. A hen that's stressed won't lay. Egg production is a luxury. Survival comes first.
In spring and summer, hens can forage for worms, insects, and greens. They'll get much of their protein naturally. But in winter, that stops. If you switch to poor-quality feed or reduce portions too much, they'll stop laying.
What I learned: Use quality layers pellets or mash from a farm supply shop. Don't rely on kitchen scraps or grains alone — they're treats, not a complete diet. And never let them go hungry. A hen that's scrambling for food won't waste energy on eggs.
4. Stress (the silent killer of egg production)
Chickens are sensitive creatures. Loud noises, sudden changes, or new birds in the flock can shut down laying for days or weeks.
I've seen it happen after a fox attack. Even without losing any birds, the flock was on edge for weeks. Egg production dropped to nearly zero.
Adding a new hen to an established flock is another stress trigger. The existing hens will peck, chase, and isolate the newcomer. It takes time for them to accept her. During that period, don't expect many eggs.
What I learned: Keep the coop in a quiet spot. Introduce new birds gradually (in a separate pen first). And if a predator visits, lock the hens in a secure coop for a few days until they calm down.
5. Health and disease
A sick hen stops laying. It's that simple. Her body focuses on survival, not reproduction.
Common illnesses in backyard flocks include respiratory infections (often from poor ventilation) and parasites like mites and lice.
What I learned: Check your hens daily. Look for signs of illness: lethargy, discharge from eyes or nostrils, or staying apart from the flock. Quarantine sick birds immediately. And keep the coop clean — damp, dirty bedding is a breeding ground for disease.
6. Mites and lice (the hidden drain)
Mites and lice are tiny, but they cause big problems. They live in the coop, hide in cracks in the wood, and feed on your hens at night. Over time, a heavy infestation weakens birds, causes anaemia, and drops egg production.
I use dry wood shavings, hemp bedding, or chopped straw for bedding. Natural materials are safer and work well. Regular cleaning and good ventilation help keep mite numbers down.
Natural light is also a powerful disinfectant. If you can open the coop roof or move the coop to a sunny spot, a few hours of direct sunlight kills mites and their eggs. They hate light.
What I learned: Check for mites regularly (look under perches at night). Use clean, dry bedding. And don't underestimate sunlight as a pest control tool.
7. Age (the natural decline)
No hen lays forever. In my flock, pullets started laying around 6 months old. It took about 3 months to reach peak production — around 4-5 eggs per hen per week in summer.
Egg production usually declines after the first couple of years. If you're running a small flock for eggs, you'll notice the drop. The hens still lay, just less often.
What I learned: For maximum egg production from heritage breeds, the first two years are the best. After that, they're still useful — just not at peak output.
8. Temperature (too hot or too cold)
Hens can lay below 15°C, but extreme cold or heat will shut them down. The key is avoiding sudden stress, not hitting a perfect temperature.
In summer, provide shade and good airflow. A hot, stuffy coop will stop laying fast. In winter, keep the coop dry and draft‑free. But don't overheat it — hens huddle together to share warmth.
What I learned: Don't panic if production drops during a heatwave or a cold snap. When temperatures return to normal, they'll start again.
9. Broody hens (the temporary stop)
A broody hen is one that decides to sit on eggs all day, refusing to leave the nest. She won't lay new eggs while she's broody.
If you don't want chicks, break broodiness early. Remove her from the nest box and block access to it for a few days. Most hens will snap out of it within a week.
What I learned: Broodiness is natural. If you want eggs, don't let her sit for weeks. Interrupt the behaviour early.
10. Grit and dust baths (the hidden essentials)
Hens need grit to digest their food. Without it, they can't break down grains and fibrous plants. Poor digestion leads to poor nutrition, which leads to fewer eggs.
They also need a dust bath — a dry spot with fine dirt or wood ash. Dust bathing controls mites and lice naturally. A hen covered in parasites will be weak and won't lay.
What I learned: Offer crushed oyster shell or flint grit in a separate bowl. And keep a dust bath in a dry corner of the run (mix wood ash with fine sand). Your hens will use it daily.
The verdict (no middle ground)
If your hens have stopped laying, don't panic. Work through the checklist:
- Are they getting enough light? (most hens lay best with around 14 hours)
- Are they moulting? (losing feathers — give them time and protein)
- Is the temperature extreme? (heatwave or cold snap?)
- Are they eating quality feed? (not just scraps or grains)
- Are they stressed? (new birds, loud noises, predators)
- Do they have grit, water, and a dust bath?
- Are they sick or infested with mites/lice?
- Are they simply older? (past their peak years)
- Is a hen broody? (sitting on eggs all day)
Most of the time, the answer is simple: daylight, moulting, diet, or stress. Fix those, and your hens will usually start laying again.
But remember: hens aren't machines. Even in perfect conditions, they'll have slow weeks. Especially in winter, after a predator attack, or during a moult. Be patient. Watch them closely. And when you solve the problem, that first egg in the nest box will feel like a victory.
Now go check your coop. Is it bright enough? Is the feeder full? Are your hens relaxed? Your breakfast table is counting on them.
Comments
Post a Comment